The Mule Ride that Wasn't - or Molokai Adventure Part Two

So bright and early this morning we drove to the top of the world, at least the Molokai world, ready to start our mule riding adventure to Kalaupapa. It was a gorgeous morning, sun shining, light mist misting, and we were ready to ride. We met J.R. , the charismatic guide, and reconnected with Lulu and Nicolette, guides we had met by chance the day before. We got our receipt and told the other members of the crew all about the fact that my parents had done this ride many years before.  They brought the mules out, saddled and ready to go.

And then one of the worker's cell phone rang.

There had been rain the night before, and there was a problem on the trail.J.R. sent R.J, the 18 year old, down the trail a bit to see what was up. Soon he was back. Between switchbacks 3 and 4, the rain had caused damage.  The trail was gone. The National Parks people closed the park to everyone, hikers and riders. Our adventure was over before it had begun.

J.R. then expressed his regret, not only that we had missed the ride, but mostly because we would not get the chance to ride the trail, visit Kaluapapa, and be overcome by the sense of "aloha" (love) that he believes can save the world.  He talked for a long time about the dark time in Hawaii's history when they lost their aloha and condemned those with leprosy to be banished to live in an isolated spot with little or no support.  He compared the fear that Hawaiians had about leprosy to the fear people have today about Ebola.  He then talked about how the people of the world need to find aloha again, and said that he had enough for everyone.  He gave each of us a big hug, full of meaning, and we left feeling that we had indeed experienced something unique.

Will I ever get back to Molokai to take the mule ride?  I don't know.  I do know though, that I will remember being here even if I didn't get to Kaluapapa, and will try to go into the world with "aloha". 

This is as close as we got to the mules. The spotted one was earmarked for Ross, as it was a bit bigger than the others.

Kaluapapa from 1700 feet above.  We would have gone down and around 26 switchbacks.

These are the present day bumper stickers, and yes, we were given one, even if we didn't do the ride.

This is the car we rented on Molokai-NOT!

Last night's sunset from the beach in front of our condo.

And on that note, farewell Molokai.  We have loved getting to know you.

Molokai Adventure Part One

Whatever Maui is, Molokai isn't. Well, that's not entirely true. Molokai has the sun, the beaches, the friendly people, the varying terrain, the mountains and valleys just as does Maui. Molokai does not have the hotels, the commercial adventure tours, the chain stores or restaurants, the endless souvenir shops, the luaus, the nightlife. In short, Maui is American. Molokai is Hawaiian.

We are in Margaret's Molokai Shores condo, which is on the ocean, minutes from everything, clean, comfortable and decorated with everything Hawaiian. Yesterday we went to the west side of the island (20 or so miles of easy driving) and found the longest white sand beach in Hawaii-Papohaku Beach. During our hour there we counted four other people. We also found raging surf, very private homes, a kite factory and gift shop and a defunct golf course (although you can still stay in the condos).  We both said that if we were celebrities, that would be a perfect place to get away from everyone!Today we went on a narrow 27 mile drive around the east side of the island toHalawa Valley and Hipuapua Falls and Moaula Falls, neither of which was accessible because of recent flash flooding. Beautiful drive, and if we met ten cars going either way, especially the last ten miles, that would be a stretch.  At one overlook (from which we could see Molokai and Lanai) we met Lulu, a young lady who works on the mule ride. She said she would make sure that Ross gets the biggest mule tomorrow!

This has been a great visit, one I am glad we decided to take, and that's even before the mule ride (I thought the ride would deserve its own post). Aloha for now.

Happy Birthday

Dear Dad,

Today would have been your 88 th birthday had you not left us all so suddenly four and a half years ago.  It seems so long ago now! I guess that's because so much has happened in those years.

You now have more great grandchildren than ever, and they are all joys, especially the ones that belong to Ross and to me. (We are just a bit biased). We have been through some health issues, and thankfully are on the other side of them. Ross and I have had some fantastic trips, including a visit with Fred and Joan in England, but I know that today, on your birthday, we are in your favourite winter location, Hawaii.  We are not on Oahu which you loved best, but on Maui, which we favour. Tomorrow we leave for Molokai, and are going to ride the mules as you and mom did so many years ago. You will be pleased to know that every one of your grandchildren remembers the bumper sticker that lived in the bathroom at Take Courage, "I'd rather be riding a mule in Molokai".  It's our turn to find out if we agree with that!

The beaches are as beautiful as ever here, dad, and we haven't had a drop so far of that "liquid sunshine" as you called rain. Ross and I walk the boardwalk every morning and the beach every night, and enjoy every moment of both.

We miss you dad. I catch myself seeing you in other people. On Christmas Eve, as I was lined up with the choir, I almost cried out when a certain man came in through the door. He looked so much like you from the side view that it took my breath away. He turned out to be the father of a friend of mine, but just for a fleeting moment, you were there with me. It is moments like those I treasure.

Later today we are going to Duke's on the beach for Happy Hour, in your honour.  Happy Birthday dad. I have to believe that you will be there too, enjoying the sunset and listening to the waves.

Love always,

Brenda

Maui Magic

Ah Maui, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways.

I love, love, love Ka'anapali Beach. I love walking it in the morning on the boardwalk, and in the evening in the waves. I love feeling the sand in my toes. I love seeing the expanse of sand, sculpted differently each day by the changing wave action. I love seeing the whales frolic, and watching our stately resident turtle meander back and forth in front of Maui Kai.  I love seeing the sun set over Lanai, sometimes brilliant, sometimes subdued by clouds, but always glorious.  I love seeing the boats rock gently in the glow of the sunset. I love feeling the pull of the waves, and feeling surprised every time an errant wave soaks me. I love our nightly stroll right to Black Rock, the ritual touching of the lava rock, and the return with the setting sun at our back.

I love Lahaina, that whaling turned tourist town, with its kitschy shops and standard tshirts, its great restaurants, its sun, heat, tourists and spreading banyan tree, and its history ( and yes, I have read Mitchener's Hawaii many times).  I love shopping for goofy things for the kiddies.  I love having Safeway on one corner and the local fish market on the other. I love being able to pay a great deal for a dinner or being able to buy a five dollar bottle of wine and a couple of chicken breasts and some shrimp and cooking at the condo.

I LOVE Maui Kai condo, with ocean steps from the door, the sound of the waves crashing as a constant background, seeing the stars every night, watching the whales from our lanai, having the choice of the beach or the pool, being not in a high end resort but in a place where the same people have come for years, chatting in the hot tub, free coffee in the morning, lovely staff, everything we need in a studio condo, a terrific library and cable tv, all we could possibly need within easy reach.  We are so fortunate to be here. Thank you Tatiana and Mark, for letting us in on this secret spot!

I love being healthy enough to walk every day, to enjoy every moment, and to create memories that will stay with me forever. I love being here with my best friend and life partner, who never says no when I suggest another trip here. I hope we have many more trips here, but if we don't I will be satisfied by what we have had.  We are more fortunate than most. Mahalo Maui.

2015

I have been thinking for the past four days about what to write to mark the beginning of a new year.  It seems unbelievable to me that we are embarking on 2015.  This was brought home to me this week, when while channel surfing I came across the Back to the Future series, and realized that the second movie of the trilogy, the one in which Marty and Doc go into the future, is set in 2015! Where is my flying car, and why do I still need to lug big bags of groceries home instead of a small container of processed food?

None of this helped me decide what to write. However, on the back of the church bulletin today is a poem by Jan L. Richardson from the book:Night Visions:Searching the Shadows of Advent and Christmas.  This is a message worth sharing.

The Shimmering Hours

There is so much I want to say,

as if the saying could prepare you

for this path,

as if there were anything I could offer

that would make your way

less circuitous, more smooth.

Once you step out

you will see for yourself

how nothing could have

made you ready for this road

that will take you

from what you know now

to what you cannot perceive

except, perhaps, in your dreaming

or as it gives a glimpse in prayer.

But I can tell you this journey is not about miles.

It is not about how far you can walk 

or how fast.

It is about what you will do

with this moment, this star

that blazes in your sky

though no one else might see.

So open your heart to these shimmering hours

by which your path is made.

Open your eyes to the light that shines

on what you will need to see.

Open your hands to those who go with you,

those seen and those known only

by their blessing, their benediction

of the road that is your own.

Wishing all in my life open hearts, open eyes, open hands, and many blessings in 2015.